Machine for shaping uppers over lasts



July 4, 1933. J, M MATHEU 1,916,275

MACHINE FOR SHAPING UPPERS OVER LASTS Original Filed Feb. 4, 1930 2 Sheets-Sheet l July 4, 1933. J. M. MATHEU 1,916,275

MACHINE FOR SHAPING UPPERS OVER LASTS Original Filed Feb. 4, 1930 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 Fig l JQG 106 1 06 ill Patented July 4, 1933 JAMES M. MATEEU, OF NEN YORK,,N. Y.,

ASSIGNOR," TU UNITED i SHOE MACHINERY CC B-PORATEON, F PATERSON, NETV JERSEY, A CORPORATION OF NEW MACHINE FOR SHAPING nrrnns-ovnnnnsrs- Application filed February 4, 1930, Serial No. 425,882. Renewed June 13, 1932.

This invention relates to machines for use in the manufacture of shoes for shaping uppers over lasts; The lnvention 1s herem illustrated in its application to what is-known projecting margin of a sole which is larger than the bottom face of the last. For the purpose in view the machine hereinshown comprises means for shaping the upper over the last, as illustrated, by pulling it at the end of the toe and the opposite sides of the forepart'in one operation, and means for driving upper-holding fastenings through the upper and into the last in different locations about the forepart in such relation to the bottom face of the last as to perinitthe margin of the upper to extend outwardly upon the pro ect1ng margin of a'sole'while the fastei'iings are in upper-holdmg positions. More particularly, the illustrated machine comprises grippers for pulling the upper in the above-mentioned locations with its margin extending heightwise of the last,

and aplurality of'tackers which are movable relatively to the grippers into uppenfastening positions at the end of the toe and the sides of the forepart and are constructed and arranged to drive tacks part way into the shoe and last in locations substantially at the junction of the bottom face and the uppershaping surface of the last and at inclinations to the bottom face/such as to permit the margin of the upper, with only a small amount of bending of the tacks, to be turned outwardly far enough to lieupon the proj ecting margin of a sole applied over the bottom of the last. The pulling-over tacks are accordingly so located in relation to the last and shoe that whileholding the upper closely in the angle between the last and the projecting margin of the sole they may remain in place until the outturned margin of the upper has been permanently secured to the sole.

The-invention is herein illustrated by reference to the manufacture ofstitchdown shoes of a type'in which the'marginofthe-upper is secured in out-turned position to a so-called first sole which lies next tothe last and is larger-than the bottom face of the last'and upon which an outsole is applied before the completion of the shoe. In the manufacture of stitch'down shoes of this an'dother types ithas been a common pr-acticeheretofore' to last the shoe progressively by conforming different-portions ofthe loose upper in succession to the contour ofthelast and fastening them to the sole in the angle between the last and the projecting margin of the sole. By

the use of a machine constructed as herein disclosedthe upper is stretched more uniformly and effectively over the last than is possible in: such a progressive lasting operation, with a resulting improvement in the quality ofth'e shoe and also with substantial saving in upperstock, since by reason of the more effective stretching ofthe upper-it may be cut to a smaller patternthan heretofore. Such a. pulled-over shoe, moreover, under some manufacturing conditions may be presented .to a sewing machine whereby-the margin of'the upper'is securedpermanentlyito the sole, without any further lasting of the pulled-over portions of the upper other than that p erformedin the operation of such a machine.

While the invention isil-lustrated with particular'reference'to the manufacture of stitchdown' shoes having the characteristics above described, it'is notlimited to the manufacture of shoes of thatp articular type, and it is accordingly to be understood that the term sole as frequently used in the claims is intended to designate that part to which the outturned margin of the upper is secured, whether it be the first sole of a shoe of the above-mentioned type or some other shoe bottom part characteristic of a difie'rent type of stitchdown shoe.

The novel-features of th'e invention will now be more particularly described by reference to the accompanying drawings and thereafter pointed out in the claims.

In the drawings,

Fig. 1 is a view from the front, partly in section, of a portion of a machine in which the invention is embodied, comprising means for pulling and fastening the upper at the opposite sides of the forepart, the parts being shown substantially in the positions that they occupy at the time of the upper-fastening operation;

Fig. 2 is a view similar to a portion of Fig. 1, but showing the parts in the positions that they occupy at the time of the pulling of the up er; i I

ig. 3 is an inverted plan view of o e of the side tackers and associated parts;

Fig. 4 is a view substantially in side elevation, but with the parts at a difi'erentangle than in the actual machine, showing the upper-fastening mechanism at the left-h and side of the shoe (Fig. 1) as it appears when viewed from the right;

Fig. 5 is a view in side elevation of the upper-pulling and fastening mechanism at the end of the toe;

Fig. 6 is a perspective view of a last and upper after the upper has been pulled over and fastened by the machine; and

Fig. 7 is a cross-sectional view of the last and shoe after a. sole has been applied on the bottom of the last.

The invention is illustrated in its application to a pulling-over machine of a wellknown type, the main features of the general organization of which are disclosed in Letters Patent No. 1,029,387, granted on June ll,

1912, upon an application of It. F. McFeely.

Only such parts of the machine, therefore, as it is necessary to refer to for an understand ing of this invention-are shown and will be described in detail.

For positioning the work and supporting the last against the pull applied to the upper, the machine is provided with a work rest 10 which in the operation of the machine on a shoe of the character illustrated directly engages the bottom face of the last. For pulling the upper at the end of the toe and the opposite sides of the forepart, there are provided a toe gripper 12 (Fig. 5) and opposite side grippers 14: 1). hen the operator presents the work to the machine he positions the margin of the upper within the open jaws of the toe and side grippers and then starts the machine, whereupon the grippers are operated bypower to pull the upper over the last with its margin extending generally heightwise of the last, as illustrated in Fig. 2, the machine coming automatically to a stop with the upper held under tension. Opportunity is then afforded for such manual movements of the grippers as may be necessary to adjust the upper properly on the last. When the machine is again started, side clamp arms 16 (Fig. 1) are swung inwardly toward the sides of the shoe to clamp the forepart of the upper against the last and support the last for the upper-fastening operation, these arms in the machine herein shown being provided only with clamp members 18 which engage the upper far enough under the forepart oi the last to furnish the required support for the last. In the continued operation of the machine the upper-fastening devices are moved inwardly into positions to operate on the shoe. In the machine herein shown, as more particularly hereinafter described, the upper-fastening devices comprise a t acker for driving a single tack at the end of the toe and a pair of tackers for driving two tacks at each side of the forepart, the term tacker Y being used as inclusive of a tack holder and a driver. The toe-end tacker is carried by a front arm 20 (Fig. mounted for swinging movement lengthwise of the shoe, and each pair of side tackers is carried by a side arm 22 (Fig. 1) mounted to swing laterally of the shoe. The arms 20 and 22 are swung inwardly to position the tackers relatively to the shoe. and in their swinging movements they act on fingers 24 on the grippers to cause the grippers to open and release the upper. After the several arms have been swung inwardly. the tacks are driven through the upper and into the last by a driver bar 26 on the front arm 20 and driver bars 28 on the side arms 22, these driver bars being impelled downwardly by spring-operated members, one of which is indicated at 30 (Fig. 1). After the tacks have thus been driven. the parts of the machine are returned to their starting positions. The organization thus briefly described and the manner of its operation are generally similar to the disclosure of the above-mentioned Letters Patent.

For purposes'of this invention, the ma chine is so constructed that the tacks are driven in a relation to the bottom face of the last such that the margin of the upper may be turned outwardly to lie against and in substantially parallel relation to the projecting margin of a sole applied over the bottom of the last while the tacks are in upper-holding positions. At what may be termed the junction of the bottom face of the last and its upper-shaping surface the last herein shown has a somewhat rounded or beveled contour, as indicated at a, and as illustrated the tacks are driven in this location and at such inclinations to the bottom face of the last that the margin of the upper may be turned outwardly as'described with but little bending of the tacks and without loosening their hold in the last. For driving the toe end tack in this manner the lower end of the front arm 20 is provided with a guideway for a tack driver 32 arranged at the required inclination and with a slot 34: which serves as a guideway for a slide 36 fast on 'the driven-this slide/having thereon a pin 38 serve as a tack holder and are recessedin their opposed faces to provide a tack pocket 44 into which each tack is fed through a passage 46 inthe arm 20, this arrangement being somewhat similar to the disclosure of .Letters Patent No. 1,279,491, granted on. September 24, 1918, upon an application of OrrellAshton. 'To determine further such arelation between the .tackholder and driver and'the shoe that the tack will bedriven in the location above described, there is securedzonv the lower end of the arm v20 by-a clamping screw 46 a member 48 -.one end of which acts as a stop in engagement with the shoe to limit the movement of. the arm. A slot 50 in the member 48 permits adjustment of the member to determine precisely the required location of the tack. The member 48 serves also as a clamp to. hold the upper on the last against loss of tension after'ithas been released by the toe gripper. To assist .in holding the upper and in positioning it properly to receive the tack, the arm20 also carries a wiper 52 which bends .the margin of the upper inwardly over the bottomof the last, the wiper having on one side a downturned flange 54 which is clamped to the arm 20 by the screw 46 between the side of the arm and the member 48.

For driving the side tacks, each side arm 22 carries two plates 56 (Figs. 1 and-4) in each of which is provided a guideway for a tack driver 58 arranged at the required in chnation. Similarly to the means'above described for fastenmg the upper at the end ofthe toe, each plate 56 is provided with tack holder-fingers 60 .controlled by a spring 62 (Figs. 1 and 3) and cooperating to form tack pocket 64 4), an adjustable limiting and upper-clamping stop 66 secured to the plate by a clamping screw 68,.and a wiper 70 having a flange 72 4) also clamped to the plate 56 by the screw 68. In each plate 56 is a passage 74 through which a tack is fed to the tack pocket 64 from a corresponding delivery tube 76 (Fig. 1) when the 22'is in its idle position. The two plates 56 are not fast on the. arm 22, but are so mounted as to permit relative movement between them and also between each plate and the arm so that they will assume relativepositions determined by the last before the driving of the tacks. For this purpose each plate is provided with slots 78 and 80 extending laterally of the shoe, and through the respective slots project bolts 82 and 84 which serve as guides, the slots being somewhat larger heightwise of' the shoe than the diameters of the bolts, so that the plate may rock in response to the action of the shoe on the wiper 70. The bolt 82, as illustrated in Fig.

4, extends through the arm 22 and also through aplate86 which is fast on the arm, theboltihaving ashoulder at 88 whereby it serves .to clamp the plate 86 to the arm when anut90'on the end'of the bolt is tightened. It will be understood that the bolt e2;- tendsthroughthe slots 78 of the two plates 56, one ofthese plates being spaced from the plate 86 by a sleeve 92 and the two plates beingspaced apart by a sleeve 9-1, these Li sleeves being so formed as to permit the plates 56 to move freely. The bolt 84 which extendsthrough the slots 80 is not seen in Fig. 4; since it is located behind the bolt 82, but it: will be understood that this bolt is secured to the fixed plate 86 and that spam ingsleeves similar to the sleeves 92 and 04 are provided thereon. The plate is further secured to the arm 22 by a bolt 06. Mounted on a-rod 98 on the plate 86 is a tersion spring 100 the twoends of which are arrangedto bear respectively on the two plates 56- to force the plates normally inward and downward as far as permitted by the bolts 82 and 84. It will be understood that this springcontrols the plates as the arm isswung toward the shoe, permitting the two tackers to adjust themselves in proper rel c .tionto the shoe, the movement of the arm being finally limited by one or the other of the plates when the bolts 82 and 84 arrive at the inner ends of the: slots in that plate.

Each-of the tack drivers 58 has a clamp 102 fast-on its outerend, and this clamp is pivotedon a stud 104 carried by an arm 106 5.

has a slot into which projects a pin 110 carriedby a bracket 112 which is secured by studs 114 to. the driver bar 28. Accordingly it will be understood that when the driver bar is moved downwardly the pin 110 acts on both the'arms 106 to swing them about i the studs 108 and thus to operate the drivers 58 to drive the tacks. The guideways in the plates 56 for the drivers 58 are sutdciently large to permit such small lateral movements of thedrivers as are necessitated by the ii swinging of the arms 106. It will be evident that the pin-and-slot connections between the bracket 112 and the arms 106 permit the plates 56 and the parts carried thereby to adjust themselves to the shoe in the manner Ii:

hereinbefore described.

The operation of the machine will be fully understood from the foregoing description. It will be seen that the several tacks are driven in locations slightly beyond the 621- .tremity of the bottom face of the last, at

what may betermed the junction of the bottom face with the upper-shaping surface of the last, and at such inclinations to the bottom face that with only a small amount of bending of the tacks, Without loosening their hold in the last, the margin of the upper Z) may be turned outwardly far enough to lie upon the projecting margin of a sole 0 (Fig. 7 applied on the bottom of the last while the tacks are in upper-holding positions. In the particular shoe herein illustrated the sole 0 is what is known as a first sole to which the margin of the upper is permanently secured and over which an outsole thereafter applied. It is contemplated that after the margin of the upper has thus been turned outwardly and the sole (1 tacked to the last, the shoe herein shown will be taken to a machine whereby the margin of the upper is stitched to the sole without any further lasting of the pulled-over portions than that performed in the sewing operation, the tacks remaining in positions to hold the upper closely in the angle between the last and the projecting margin of the sole under the tension applied in the pulling-over operation until it has thus been permanently secured to the sole. After the sewing operation the tacks will be withdrawn.

It will be evident that by the use of the machine described the upper is stretched more uniformly and tightly over the last than has been possible heretofore in the progressive lasting of a previously unstretched upper, with a resulting improvement in the quality of the work and a substantial saving in upper stock, as hereinbefore explained.

It is to be understood that the machine described is by no means limited in utility to the manufacture of shoes having unlined uppers and having two soles arranged as herein illustrated, but that it may be also used, as hereinbefore suggested, in the mannfacture of various other kinds of stitchdown shoes. It is further to be understood that the invention is not limited to means for driving the particular number of tacks herein shown nor means for driving the tacks in the precise locations indicated.

Having described the invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States is:

1. In a machine for shaping over lasts the uppers of stitchdown shoes, the combination with means for shaping an upper over the forepart of a last, of means for driving upper-holding fastenings through the upper and into the last at the end of the toe and the opposite sides of the forepart in such relation to the bottom face of the last as to permit the margin of the upper to extend outwardly upon the projecting margin of a sole while the fastenings are in upper-holding positions.

2. In a machine for pulling over lasts the uppers of stitchdown shoes, the combination with a plurality of grippers for pulling an upper over a last respectively at the end of the toe and at the opposite sides of the forepart, of a plurality of upper-fastening devices arranged to drive upper-holding fastenings through the upper and into the last at the end of the toe and the sides of the forepart in such relation to the bottom face of the last as to permit the margin of the upper to extend outwardly upon the projecting margin of a sole while the fastenings are in upper-holding positions.

3. In a machine for shaping over lasts the uppers of stitchdown shoes, the combination with means for shaping an upper over the forepart of a last, of a plurality of upperfastening devices movable into upper-fastening positions after the upper-shaping operation and arranged to drive upper-holding fastenings through the upper and into the last in diii'erent locations about the forepart in such relation to the bottom face of the last as to permit the margin of the upper to extend outwardly upon the projecting margin of a sole while the fastenings are in upperholding positions.

4. In a machine for shaping over lasts the uppers of stitchdown shoes, the combination with means for shaping an upper over a last, of means for driving upper-holding fastenings through the upper and into the last at its opposite sides in such relation to the bottom face of the last as to permit the margin of the upper to extend outwardly upon the projecting margin of a sole while the fastenings are in upper-holding positions.

5. In a. machine for pulling over lasts the uppers of stitchdown shoes, the combination with grippers for pulling an upper over a last at the opposite sides of the forepart at one operation, of upper-fastening devices constructed and arranged to act automatically to drive upper-holding fastenings through the upper and into the last at the opposite sides of the forepart in such relation to the bottom face of the last as to permit the margin of the upper to extend outwardly upon the projecting margin of a sole while the fastenings are in upper-holding positions.

6. In a machine for pulling over lasts the uppers of stitchdown shoes, the combination with grippers for pulling an upper over a last in different locations about the forepart of the last, of a plurality of upper-fastening devices mounted independently of said grippers and arranged to drive upper-holding fastenings through the upper and into the last in such relation to the bottom face of the last as to permit the margin of the upper to extend outwardly in substantially parallel relation to the projecting margin of a sole while the fastenings are in upper-holding positions.

7. In a machine for pulling over lasts the uppers of stitchdown shoes, the combination :ith grippers for pulling an upper over a last in different locations about the forepart of the last, of a plurality of upper-fastening devices movable relatively't'o said grippers intoupper-fastening positions and arranged upon the projecting margin of a solewhile' thefastenings are in upper-holding positions.

8. Ina machine for pulling over lasts the uppers of stitchdown shoes, the combination with means for pulling an upper over the forepart of a last, of a plurality of tackers movable relatively to the upper-pulling means into operative positions and arranged to drive upper-holding tacks part way into the shoe and last in such relation to the bottom face of the last as to permit the margin of the upperto extend outwardly in substantially parallel relation to the projecting margin of asole while the tacks are in upperholding positions.

9. In a machine for pulling over lasts the uppers of stitchdown shoes, the combination with means for pulling an upper over the forepart of a'last with its margin extending heightwise of the last, of means for driving upper-holding fastenings through the upper and'into the last in different locations about the forepart in such relation to the bottom face of the last as to permit the margin of the upper thus pulled to be turned outwardly to lie upon the projecting margin of a sole applied over the bottom of the last while the fastenings are in upper-holding positions.

10. In a machine for pulling over lasts the uppersof stitchdown shoes, thecombination with grippers for pulling an upper over the forepart of a last with its margin 40 extending height-wise of the last, of upperfastening deyicesmovable relativelv to said grippers into upper-fastening posit ons and arrangedto drive upper-holding fastenings through'the upper and'into the last in dif ferent locations about the forepart in such relation to the bottom face of the last as to permit themarginof the u'iper thus pulled to be turned outwardly in substantially parallel relation to the projecting margin of a sole applied over the bottom of the last while the fastenings are in upper-holding positions.

1-1. In a machine :for pulling over lasts the uppers of stitchdown shoes, the combination with grippers for pulling an upper respectively atthe end of the toe and at the opposite si-des'of the forepart with the margin of the upper extending heightwise of the last, of a plurality of tackers arranged to drive upperholding tacks part way into the shoe and last at'theendof the toe and the sides of the forepart in such relation to the bottom face of thelast as to permitthe margin ofthe upper to'be'turned'outwardly to lie upon the projec-tinganarginKof a sole applied overthe hottom of the last while the'tacks are in upperholding positions. y

12. In a machine for shaping over lasts the uppers of stitchdown shoes, the combination with means for shaping an upper over a last, of means'for driving upper-holding fastenings through the upper and into the last at the opposite sides of the last in locations substantially at the junction of the bottom face and the upper-shaping surface of the last and in such relation to said bottom to extend outwardly upon the projecting 'margin of a sole while the fastenings are'in upper-holding positions. j

13. In a machine for pulling over lasts the uppers of stitchdown shoes, the combination with means for pulling an upper over the forepart of a last, of a plurality of upperfastening devices arranged to drive upperliolding fastenings through the upper and into the last in different locations about the forepart substantially at the junction of the bottom face and the upper-shaping surface of the last and in such relation to said bottom face as to permit the margin of the upper to be turned outwardly in angular relation to the portion of the upper adjacent thereto 011 the upper-shaping surface of the last while the fastenings are in upper-holding positions.

14. In a machine for pulling over laststhe uppers of stitchdown shoes, the combination with grippersfor pulling an upper over a'last in different locations about the forepart, of a plurality of tackers arranged to drive upper-holding tacks part way into the shoe and last in diii'erentlocations about the forepart substantially at the junction of the bottom face of the upper-shaping surface of the last and'at inclinations to said bottom face such. to permit the margin of the upper to be turned outwardly in angular relation to the portion of the upper adjacent thereto on the upper-shaping surface of the last while the tacks are in upper-holding positions.

15. In a machine of the class described, the combination with means for shapingan upper over the forepart of a last, of means for driving upper-holding fastenings through the upper and into the last at the opposite sides of'the forepart in locations beyond but near the bottom face of the last.

16. In a machine of the class described, the combination with means for shaping an upper over the forepart of a last, ofmeans for driving upper-holding tacks part way into the shoe and last in different locations about the forepart beyond but near the bottom face of the last and in inclined relation to said bottom face.

17. In a machine of the class described,

the combination with means for shaping an upper over theforepart of'a last, of means for driving upper-holding fastenings through the upper and into the last in different locations about the forepart substantially at the junction of the bottom face and the uppershaping surface of the last.

18. In a machine of the class described, the combination with grippers for pulling an upper over a last in different locations about the forepart, of upper-fastening devices movable relatively to said grippers into upper-fastening positions and arranged to drive upper-holding fastenings through the upper and into the last in different locations about the forepart, said upper-fastening devices having means for limiting their positioning movements as determined by the last to locate the fastenings substantially at the junction of the bottom face and the uppersha-ping surface of the last.

19. In a machine of the class described, the combination with grippers for pulling an upper over a last in different locations about the forepart, of upper-fastening means comprising a plurality of tackers arranged to drive upper-holding tacks part way into the shoe and last in different locations about the forepart substantially at the junction of the bottom face and the upper-shaping surface of the last and in directions inclined to said bottom face.

20. In a machine of the class described, the combination with means for pulling an upper over the forepart of a last, of means for fastening the upper in different locations about the forepa-rt comprising a plurality of tackers movable relatively to the upper-pulling means into positions determined by the last and arranged to drive tacks part way into the shoe and last in locations substantially at the junction of the bottom face and the upper-shapin surface of the last and indirections inclined to said bottom face.

21. In a machine of the class described, the combination with means for shaping an upper over the forepart of a last, of a plurality of tackers movable into upper-fastening ositions and arranged to drive upperholding tacks part way into the shoe and last in different locations about the forepart and in directions inclined to the bottom face of the last, said ta-c-kers having thereon stops arranged to limit their positioning move ments as determined by the last to locate the tacks substantially at the junction at the bottom face of the upper-shaping surface of the last.

22. In a machine of the class described, the combination with grippers for pulling an upper over a last respectively at the end of the toe and the opposite sides of the forepart, of upper-fastening means comprising a plurality of tackers movable relatively to said grippers into upper-fastening positions and constructed and arranged to drive tacks part way into the shoe and last at the end of the toe and the sides of the forepart, said tackers having stops thereon for limiting their positioning movements in such relation to the last as to locate the tacks substantially at the junction of the bottom face and the uppersha-ping surface of the last.

23. In a machine of the class described, the combination with means for pulling an upper over the forepart of a last, of means for fastening the upper in different locations about the forepart comprising a plurality of driver bars movable in directions heightwise of the last and a plurality of drivers operated by said driver bars and movable in directions inclined to the bottom face of the last" to drive fastenings through the upper and into the last, and means for determining such a. relation between said drivers and the last as to drive the fastenings substantially at the junction of said bottom face and the uppershaping surface of the last.

24. In a machine of the class described, the combination with means for pulling an upper over a last, of an arm movable toward the last and having thereon a plurality of upperfastening devices arranged to drive fastenings through the upper and into the last, said upper-fastening devices being so mounted on the arm as to permit relative movement between them to position them in proper relation to the last and having means for automatically positirming them as determined by the last to locate the fastenings substantially at the junction of the bottom face and the upper-shaping surface of the last.

25. In amachine for pulling over lasts the uppers of stitchdown shoes, the combination with a gripper for pulling an upper over a last, of upper-fastening means movable relatively to said gripper into upper-fastening position and constructed and arranged to drive an upper-holding fastening through the upper and into the last in such relation to the bottom face of the last as to permit the margin of the upper to extend outwardly over the projecting margin of a sole while the fastening is in upper-l1olding position.

26. In a machine for pulling over lasts the uppers of stitchdown shoes, the combination with means for pulling an upper over a last with its margin extending heightwise of the last, of means for driving an upper-holding fastening through the upper and into the last in such relation to the bottom face of the last as to permit the margin of the upper to be turned outwardly to lie upon the projecting margin of a sole applied over the bottom of the last while the fastening is in upper-holding position.

27. In a machine for pulling over lasts the uppers of stitchdown shoes, the combination with a gripper for pulling an upper over a last with its margin extending heightwise of the last, of upper-fastening means comprisin g a tacker movable relatively to said gripper into upper-fastening position and constructed and arranged to drive a tack part way into the shoe and last in such relation to the bottom face of the last as to permit the mar gin ofthe upper to be turned outwardly to lie upon the projecting margin of a sole applied over the bottom of the last while the tack is in upper-holding position.

28. In a machine for pulling over lasts the uppers of stitchdown shoes, the combination with means for pulling an upper over a last with its margin extending heightwise of the last, of means for driving an upper-holding fastening part way into the shoe and last in a location substantially at the junction of the bottom face and the upper-shaping surface of the last and at an inclination to said bottom face such as to permit the margin of the upper to be turned outwardly in angular relation to the portion of the upper adjacent thereto on the upper-shaping surface of the last while the fastening is in upper-holding position.

29. In a machine for pulling over lasts the uppers of stitchdown shoes, the combination with a gripper for pulling an upper over a last, of upper-fastening means comprising a tacker movable relatively to said gripper into upper-fastening position and construct ed and arranged to drive a tack part way into the shoe and last in a location substantially at the junction of the bottom face and the upper-shaping surface of the last and in such relation to said bottom face as to permit the margin of the upper to be turned outwardly to lie upon the projecting margin of a sole applied over the bottom of the last while the tack is in upper-holding position.

30. In a machine of the class described, the

combination with means for shaping an upper over the forepart of a last, ofmeans for driving a fastening through the upper and into the forepart of the last in a location beyond but near the bottom face of the last and V in a direction inclined to said bottom face.

31. In a machine of the class described, the combination with means for shaping an upper over a last, of means for driving an upper-holding tack part way into the shoe and last substantially at the junction of the bottom face and the upper-shaping surface of the last and in a direction inclined to said bottom face.

cation substantially at the junction of the bottom face and the upper-shaping surface of the last.

33. In a machine of the class described, the combination with a gripper for pulling an upper over a last, of upper-fastening means comprising a tacker movable relatively to the gripper into upper-fastening position and constructed and arranged to drive a tack part way into the shoe and last in a direction inclined to the bottom face of the last, and means for limiting the positioning movement of said tacker as determined by the last to locate the tack substantially at the junction of the bottom face and the uppershaping surface of the last.

34-. In a machine of the class described, the combination with means for pulling an upper OVGI a last, of a tacker movable into upper-fastening position and constructed to drive an upper-holding tack part way into the shoe and last in a direction inclined to the bottom face of the last, said tacker having thereon a stop for engaging the shoe to limit its positioning movement in such relation to the last as to locate the tack substantially at the junction of the bottom face and the upper-- Shaping surface of the last.

35. In a machine of the class described, the combination with means for pulling an upper over a last, of means for fastening the upper comprising a driver bar movable in a direction heightwise of the last and a driver op- JAMES M. MATI-IEU. 

